the land ethic

toward a state of harmony between men and land by Chris Madson

  • Wyoming lawmakers lay an egg

    Hen sage grouse visit dominant male on a spring breeding ground. copyright 2016 by Chris Madson, all rights reserved.
    Hen sage grouse visit dominant male on a spring breeding ground. copyright 2016 by Chris Madson, all rights reserved.

    ON MARCH 1, THE WYOMING LEGISLATURE PASSED A LAW ALLOWING GAME BIRD FARMS TO take sage grouse and their eggs from the wild in order to produce birds in captivity. Professional wildlife biologists were nearly unanimous in their opposition to the proposal, so much so that Wyoming Governor Matt Mead allowed it to become law without his signature, explaining that he had “considerable reservations with this new bill.”[i]

    In the wake of Wyoming’s legislative action, Ryan Zinke, the Trump administration’s new secretary of the interior, issued an order on June 8 calling for a 60-day review of the sage-grouse management plan[ii], the plan that was adopted in 2015 after years of intense debate and collaboration involving hundreds of western residents from a spectrum of backgrounds as well as representatives of local, state, and federal government, the plan that was instrumental in convincing the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to keep the greater sage grouse off the list of federally threatened species. Among other goals, Zinke’s order singled out captive breeding of sage grouse as a possible way to “maintain and improve the current population.”[iii]

    Captive breeding of sage grouse was a bad idea when it was proposed in the Wyoming legislature, as scores of wildlife professionals pointed out. It was a bad idea when it became law, as Governor Matt Mead pointed out. And it remains a bad idea, in spite of Secretary Zinke’s interest and tacit support. Here’s why:

    Captive breeding is a last-ditch step in the effort to hold onto an endangered species, an expensive, risky approach that has some chance of working when the habitat that supported the species is still available and practically none at all if there is no habitat left. Captive breeding has been of significant use in the effort to hold onto highly endangered animals like the California condor, the whooping crane, and the black-footed ferret and very little use for species like the red wolf and the Florida panther.

    There are several reasons biologists try to avoid using captive breeding. Sensitive species often don’t survive captivity, and when they do, they often refuse to breed or raise their young. Young animals that are raised by people often fail to imprint on their own kind and won’t breed at all. Young animals raised by closely related species, like young whooping cranes raised by sandhill crane adults, get mixed up about their identity and won’t breed with other members of their own species. Young animals raised in captivity often lack the most basic survival skills, like choosing the right foods in the wild, avoiding predators, or finding shelter in extreme weather. Finally, if the habitat that originally supported the species is rare or has disappeared entirely, there is no place to put animals that are produced in captivity.

    The challenges of maintaining populations of rare birds are nowhere more obvious than among America’s grassland grouse. The heath hen is extinct; the Gunnison’s sage grouse is on the federal list of threatened species[iv]; the lesser prairie chicken and Columbian sharp-tailed grouse have both been proposed for threatened status under federal law, and the Attwater’s prairie chicken, a permanent occupant of the federal endangered species list since its inception, has now declined to a population of 42 birds in the wild.

    When considering a captive breeding program for any grassland grouse, the case of the Attwater’s is worth review. This subspecies of the greater prairie chicken was included on the very first American list of endangered species in 1967. At that point, its population was in free fall from a presettlement high of as many as 120,000 birds[v] to barely 1,000[vi]. Nor did the collapse end there, even after a national wildlife refuge was created to protect some of the last scraps of remaining Attwater’s habitat in 1972[vii]. By 1990, biologists could find only 470 birds.[viii]

    A male Attwater's prairie chicken displaying on one of the species' last breeding grounds in southern Texas. Copyright 2015 Chris Madson, all rights reserved.
    A male Attwater’s prairie chicken displaying on one of the species’ last breeding grounds in southern Texas. Copyright 2015 Chris Madson, all rights reserved.

    Faced with this precipitous decline, wildlife managers decided to begin a captive breeding effort in 1992. It took a while to find a regime the birds would tolerate. In the first five years, the facility produced an average of 44 young birds per year. The first captive-raised birds were released to the wild in 1996, and over the next four years, the average number of birds produced rose to 66 per year. Between 2012 and 2016, production increased again, to more than 300 birds per year.[ix]

    Numbers of Attwater’s prairie chickens in the wild have bounced around in the years since the release of captive birds began. The population dropped as low as 40 birds in 2002, rose, then dropped back to 40 in 2005. In 2016, it hit a modern high of 130, but a major flood that year hit the birds hard. The 2017 count was back to 42 birds.[x]

    There’s little doubt that the subspecies would be gone if it hadn’t been for the steady supply of captive-reared birds. Let me repeat that: The Attwater’s prairie chicken would almost certainly be extinct if it hadn’t been for the research, commitment, and persistence of a group of scientists and technicians who overcame many of the barriers to keeping the birds in captivity, getting them to breed, and raising young prairie chickens to flight stage. These conservationists have worked a minor miracle.

    However, it’s also clear that 25 years of captive breeding and consistent introduction of pen-reared birds, combined with all the other management efforts, have not been enough to move the Attwater’s prairie chicken out of danger— 42 birds in 1996; 42 birds in 2017.[xi] Right back where they started. Drought, hurricanes, floods, and the invasion of an exotic insect, the fire ant, have all set back the recovery, and beyond these environmental shocks, there are indications that the captive-reared Attwater’s chickens are weaker than their wild brethren.

    Research suggests that there are differences in the function of the immune systems of Attwater’s prairie chickens in the wild and those raised in captivity, differences that could affect survival of captive birds when they are released and possibly even the survival of any chicks they produced.[xii] Other investigators report that Attwater’s prairie chickens raised in captivity are less alarmed by the approach of a dog and don’t fly as far as other prairie chickens when they’re disturbed. The difference apparently lasts throughout their lives and may well mean that the captive-reared birds are more vulnerable to predators.[xiii]

    And the hard truth is that there aren’t many places left to put captive-reared Attwater’s prairie chickens. Val Lehman, the first researcher to take a hard look at the bird, estimated that, in good years, there were around 6 million acres of Attwater’s prairie chicken habitat.[xiv] These days, there are between 100,000 and 200,000 acres left, depending on how you count, or roughly three percent of the original.[xv]

    Beyond these biological issues, there is the matter of cost. Several private-sector conservation facilities house captive-rearing programs for Attwater’s prairie chickens, and all these organizations help fund the effort, which makes it hard to estimate the actual cost. At least one authority on the Attwater’s program has been quoted as saying that the released birds run about $1,000 each,[xvi] and that may well be a conservative figure, since it doesn’t include the start-up costs of the captive breeding program or construction of the buildings that house it.

    That’s what a captive breeding program looks like, and it’s why biologists suggest captive breeding only as a last resort when a species is in imminent danger of extinction.

    The situation facing greater sage grouse is worrisome, without doubt. Half the bird’s range has been destroyed, and much of what remains is in no better than fair condition[xvii]. New diseases like West Nile virus also pose a threat.[xviii] Still, there are between 200,000 and 500,000 sage grouse left[xix] and about 120 million acres of

    A male sage grouse displays on a communal spring breeding ground. Copyright 2016 Chris Madson, all rights reserved.
    A male sage grouse displays on a communal spring breeding ground. Copyright 2016 Chris Madson, all rights reserved.

    occupied habitat.[xx] The opportunity to influence management on these lands is much greater than it is in Attwater’s prairie chicken habitat, since more than 60 percent of greater sage grouse country is controlled by the Bureau of Land Management and other federal agencies.

    With all these reasons to avoid captive breeding of greater sage grouse, why would Secretary Zinke mention it as an area of focus for the team charged with this 60-day review? The secretary’s order offers a chilling motive: He believes captive breeding may allow “energy and other development of public lands . . ., job creation and local economic growth.”[xxi] In other words, he is hoping to find a way to accelerate habitat loss in the West’s sagebrush grasslands, the one trend that really does threaten the future of sage grouse, along with Columbian sharptails, pronghorns, mule deer, and a host of other wild things that depend on the sage.

    Alarm over the possibility of a major shift in sage-grouse management has transcended party lines. On May 26, Governor Mead, a dyed-in-the-wool Wyoming Republican, and Colorado Governor John Hickenlooper, a twenty-first-century western Democrat, co-signed a letter to Secretary Zinke expressing their worry over the possibility that he might make major changes to the sage grouse management plan currently in place without consulting the many interest groups that helped forge the agreement.

    “We are concerned,” they wrote, “that this is not the right decision.”

    I share the governors’ concern. The management approach for sage grouse that is being followed today is the product of an intense negotiation that stretched over several years and involved all points of view. Upsetting that delicate consensus now would be a severe blow to sage grouse and the sagebrush grasslands on which they depend. And adopting a captive-breeding effort to justify accelerated industrial incursions into the sagebrush wilderness is, at best, an act of ignorance and, at worst, a cynical perversion of science and conservation to benefit a well-heeled special interest.

    Sage grouse don’t need help with their love lives— they handle that just fine on their own. What they need is a place to live, a landscape that provides food, water, and shelter, secure nurseries, refuge from blizzards and drought. The key to the future of sage grouse is habitat, not captive breeding.

    And we hold the key in our hands.


    [i] Letter from Governor Matt Mead to The Honorable Edward Murray, Wyoming Secretary of State, regarding Enrolled Act No. 0091 — Original HB0271 Game bird farms — greater sage grouse. March 14, 2017.

    [ii] Order No. 3353, Secretary of the Interior, Washington, D.C. June 8, 2017.

    [iii] Order 3353, page 3, lines 18-21.

    [iv] ECOS Environmental Conservation Online System, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. https://ecos.fws.gov/ecp0/pub/SpeciesReport.do?dcomname=1&searchstring=sage-grouse&action=generate&outgrouped=false&outformat=html&outtype=species&dsciname=0&dgroup=2&dstatus=3&dinvname=-1&dspcode=-1&dfamily=-1&ddate=-1&dleadreg=-1&drange=-1&dregions=-1&dmapstatus=-1&dvip=-1&dinvpop=-1&dcrithab=-1&dspecrule=-1&dstates=-1&dwl=-1&sgroup=0&ssciname=1&scomname=2&sinvname=-1&sspcode=-1&sfamily=-1&sdate=-1&searchkey=comname&searchkey=sciname&header=Results+of+Species+Search&s8fid2=24012698821181&s8fid2=112761032791&s8fid2=112762573891. Consulted on July 22, 2017.

    [v] Johnsgaard, Paul A., 2002. Grassland Grouse and Their Conservation. Smithsonian Institution Press, Washington, D.C. p. 20.

    [vi] Attwater’s prairie chicken count data provided by Terry Rossignol, manager at the Attwater’s Prairie Chicken National Wildlife Refuge.

    [vii] Johnsgaard, p. 26.

    [viii] APCNWR data.

    [ix] Personal communication, Terry Rossignol, manager of the Attwater’s Prairie Chicken National Wildlife Refuge, July 19, 2017.

    [x] APCNW data and personal communication with Terry Rossignol.

    [xi] APCNWR data.

    [xii] Meier, S.A., C.A. Fassbinder-Orth, and W.H. Karasov, 2013. Ontogenetic changes in innate immune function in captive and wild subspecies of prairie chickens. Journal of Wildlife Management 77(3): 633-638.

    [xiii] Hess, M.F., N.J. Silvy, C.P. Griffin, R.R. Lopez, and D.S. Davis, 2005. Differences in flight characteristics of pen-reared and wild prairie chickens. Journal of Wildlife Management 69(2): 650-654.

    [xiv] Lehmann, V.W. 1941. Attwater’s prairie chicken: Its life history and management. U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C. p. 4.

    [xv] Bergan, J., M. Morrow, and T. Rossignol, 2010. Attwater’s prairie chicken recovery plan, second revision. U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, Albuquerque, NM. pp. 28-29.

    [xvi] Pearce, Michael, 2014. Prairie chicken propagation plan has risks. Wichita Eagle-Beacon, July 19, 2014.

    [xvii] Public Employees for Environmental Responsibility BLM Rangeland Health Standards Mapping Project https://mangomap.com/pdl/maps/24736/BLM%20RANGELAND%20HEALTH%20STANDARDS%20EVALUATION%20DATA%20(2012)?preview=true#zoom=6&lat=35.844535&lng=-111.851807&layergroups=pdl%3Afd2d4cda-6549-11e4-a90b-22000b2517a0,pdl%3A881e3858-596b-11e4-a105-22000b2517a0&isNewLayer=false&hostPermalinkEnable=false&bck=bingmap, viewed July 23, 2017.

    [xviii] Taylor, R.L., J.D. Tack, D.E. Naugle, and L.S. Mills, 2013. Combined effects of energy development and disease on grater sage-grouse. PLOS One 8(8): e71256.

    [xix] U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service fact sheet: https://www.fws.gov/greatersagegrouse/factsheets/GreaterSageGrouseCanon_FINAL.pdf Viewed July 23, 2017.

    [xx] Knick, S.T. and J.W. Connelly, 2011. Greater sage-grouse: Ecology and conservation of a landscape species and its habitats. University of California Press, Berkeley, CA.

    [xxi] Order No. 3353, Secretary of the Interior Ryan Zinke, June 8, 2017. p. .3.

  • Testimony on sage grouse captive breeding before the Wyoming Game and Fish Commission

    sage grouse fighting 6-1

    THANK YOU, MR. PRESIDENT AND LADIES AND GENTLEMEN OF THE COMMISSION FOR THE OPPORTUNITY TO SPEAK TO YOU TODAY.

    My name is Chris Madson. I hold a master’s degree in wildlife ecology from the University of Wisconsin-Madison. I served six years with the Kansas Department of Wildlife and Parks, where I was exposed to management issues relating to greater and lesser prairie chickens. After that, I served thirty years with the Wyoming Game and Fish Department. I am a certified wildlife biologist with The Wildlife Society.

    I think it’s fair to say that the community of wildlife professionals is nearly unanimous in its opinion that captive breeding greater sage grouse is a bad idea. Hard experience with a number of captive breeding programs lends weight to this view. Perhaps the best example of the pitfalls that plague captive breeding and reintroduction is the Attwater’s prairie chicken.

    Wildlife managers began a captive breeding effort to save the Attwater’s prairie chicken in 1992. By 1996, the first year captive-bred birds were released to the wild, the population had declined to 42 birds.

    The infusion of birds from the breeding program helped stabilize the population. In 2016, the count hit a modern high of 130 birds in the wild, but in 2017, the count was back to 42 birds.

    The Attwater’s would almost certainly be extinct if it hadn’t been for captive breeding, but it’s also clear that 25 years of captive breeding and introduction of pen-reared birds have not been enough to move the Attwater’s prairie chicken out of danger— 42 birds in 1996; 42 birds in 2017. Right back where they started.

    That’s what a captive breeding program looks like, and it’s why biologists suggest captive breeding only as a last resort when a species is in imminent danger of extinction.

    Ladies and gentlemen of the commission, I am confident that Wyoming Game and Fish professionals can promulgate the best possible oversight program within the limits of this statute. In this case, the devil is NOT in the details— the concept of captive breeding itself is the problem.

    Following the passage of this statute, the leaders of the Game and Fish Department had little choice but to make these recommendations. But you, ladies and gentlemen of the commission, have more latitude. You are the department’s governing body. Captive breeding in Wyoming cannot proceed without regulation. If you do not adopt regulations this year, you allow the people of the state to more fully consider the wisdom of captive breeding sage grouse.

    Frankly, this law is a classic example of political interference in a highly complex technical field. Your vote against captive breeding regulations is a vote in support of biology over politics in Wyoming’s wildlife management.

  • A rose by any other name . . .

     

     

    Flick's skunk bath

    FLICK THE BRITTANY AND I TAKE A WALK EVERY MORNING.  IT’S ABOUT three miles for me and somewhere between nine and fifteen miles for him, I’d guess. Keeps us both in shape for the bird seasons. The usual route leads around the outside of a small golf course, past the local high school, and around the edge of the city’s composting facilities. The advantage of this route is the amount of open space— a well-disciplined dog can get all the exercise he needs without encountering cars, joggers, bikers, and other morning traffic.

    There are quite a few wild things in this waste spaces. A mule deer doe and her progeny use them regularly, although I seldom see more than their tracks. The local flock of Canada geese grazes on the outfields of the ball diamonds we pass on our way, and a couple of pairs of mallards nest and raise broods in the vicinity. In some years, the local red fox dens behind the compost piles in the winter. A month or so ago, I met a raccoon crossing the road at dawn, and yesterday, there was a merlin hunting out of one of the shelterbelts.

    This morning, there was also a skunk. I didn’t see him, but as soon as I heard Flick’s high-pitched bark, I was afraid there had been a meeting. Sure enough, he came up out of the drainage ditch with a distinct yellow patch between his eyes. It was a direct hit, the stench already drifting down with the breeze. Enough to gag a maggot, as my dad used to say.

    Flick and I have had this experience half a dozen times over his life. He doesn’t seek out skunks, but he does sometimes overrun his nose, which leads to occasional confrontations. If I’m lucky, he dodges most of the shot; if I’m not, he catches the full dose square in the face. This morning, he left a scent trail that hung down the street for the better part of an hour.

    Every time I have to deal with a skunked dog, I heap blessing upon the anonymous benefactor of all owners of hunting dogs, that gifted soul who invented “the recipe.” This combination of hydrogen peroxide and baking soda is miraculous in its ability to nullify skunk odor. As I was scrubbing Flick down this morning, I recognized some slight modifications I’ve made to hasten the deodorizing process. I offer them to fellow hunters and other dog owners who may be dealing with this problem at some point in the future.

    The first time I used the recipe, I just splashed it on the dog while we stood in the backyard. I quickly found that the mixture didn’t do much good after it had soaked into the grass. I diluted my next batch to stretch it, but that reduced its potency. These days, I put the dog in the smallest tub he can stand in— for my 56-pound Brittany, that’s a storage container from Target. That way, I can pour the mixture on him at more or less full strength, then easily recycle it from the bottom of the tub.

    For my dog, I use up to 8 pints of hydrogen peroxide with the appropriate amount of baking soda. The hydrogen peroxide costs a dollar a pint at my super market, so the cost is minimal compared to the extended hassle of keeping a skunked dog around the yard, let alone the house.

    The recipe calls for dish-washing detergent or other “liquid soap.” That’s fine if your dog has been sprayed in the rear or flank, but most dogs take the blast right in their faces. Most versions of the recipe warn that you should be careful not to get it in a dog’s eyes, since it really stings. That’s great advice, except that any square millimeter of fur that has skunk musk on it will continue to stink until it’s thoroughly treated. That includes eyebrows, eyelids, jowls, and muzzle. If you are too careful with the dog’s eyes, he will carry a faint eau d’skunk on his face for several weeks.

    This time, I decided to use baby shampoo instead of detergent. “Johnson’s No-More-Tears” formula. All that’s required is a wetting agent, and the baby shampoo seems to work just fine for that, while allowing a thorough scrubbing of the dog’s face.

    I mix up a gallon of the recipe at a time. When I’m done with the scrub-down and rinse, I ask my wife to sniff-test the dog, partly because she apparently has a more refined sense of smell than I do, but mostly because prolonged exposure to the odor blunts my ability to smell the stuff. A fresh nose is more sensitive.

    If there are any areas with residual odor— and there always are— I mix a second batch and concentrate on those places. Rinse copiously with the garden hose, and, once he’s dry, Flick is once again fit company in the house.

    Now, if I can just figure out how to deal with that skunk. I can live-trap him, but that leaves a salient question: how to deal with a live skunk in a trap. A .22 long rifle seems the most expedient solution, but I am, alas, inside the limits of a town that allows no discharge of firearms. A detour on the morning walk is probably in order . . .

  • The discipline

    Shirley Mt sunset 3THE FIRST SET OF TRACKS LED TO A SECOND, THEN FOUR OTHERS, THEN EVEN MORE— a herd of elk weaving through the timber. The prints weren’t all that fresh, probably made the previous evening, but the herd didn’t seem to be in a hurry, and, against all the hard experience I’ve had trying to catch up with elk, I figured it was worth a try, especially since this was the freshest sign I’d seen in three days.

    A mile later, I broke out of the trees onto a windswept point that gave me a view of the next big ridge to the east, a spine of rock and lodgepole pine that formed the east rim of Ten Mile Canyon. A ravine opened at my feet and dropped steeply down to the river a thousand vertical feet and half a mile away.

    The tracks dropped into the head of the ravine. Of course.

    If it had been the first day or even the second, I wouldn’t have followed. But, by the morning of the third day, it gets hard to find easy elk on public land. This might be the best chance I had left. Following them down there was going to be hard— I could see where the elk had slipped and slid down the slope. And if I killed something down there, getting it out was going to be a lot worse. I hesitated, thought about a couple of alternatives, and shrugged. The first thing to do was find them, then I could make up my mind. I followed the tracks.

    All the way down to the river, as it turned out. When they got to the bank, they turned upstream and walked another quarter of a mile to a riffle. Where they crossed. It was nearly four feet deep out in the middle; the current was brisk, and there was a shelf of ice in the eddies along the bank. The ambient temperature stood at about twenty degrees. Another close look at the tracks— still several hours old. I was not going after these elk.

    I walked along the river to the next side canyon and turned up it in the forlorn hope that it might have an elk or two of its own, then started the long, weary climb back to the west rim.

    We call this a sport, I thought, as I stripped off my hat and gloves and opened the zipper on my fleece. I’ve been involved in several sports over my lifetime, mostly for entertainment, but one or two pretty seriously. I spent a number of years training for those— weight rooms and wind sprints, intervals and over-distance. A lot of sweat, a lot of hard work.

    But not as hard as this. A serious training schedule may take three or even four hours out of a day. I’d rolled out at four this morning; now, it was ten, and when I got back to the top of the mountain, I would continue until dark. The same yesterday. Same the day before that. And, if I don’t find an elk this afternoon, I thought, it’ll be the same tomorrow.

    Nor was endurance all I needed. I’d learned the hard way that I ‘d better stay focused, no matter how tired I was. Putting my head down and just pulling the hill was a sure way to be ambushed instead of ambushing. Covering miles was pointless if I wasn’t paying attention, which is easy to say when you’re back in town gossiping and remarkably difficult to actually do when you’re worn down to a frazzle and your socks are wet.

    “Sport” hunting. We use it to distinguish what we do from other pursuits that involve killing a wild animal. Somewhere in the long, shadowy history of the hunt, a certain breed of practitioners needed some way to distinguish the concept of fair chase from taking game for the market or to just to provide meat for the family. Someone— an Englishman, I have no doubt— decided to call this peculiar brand of venery “sport” hunting.

    I’m sure he meant no slight. The English are known to blur the distinction between casual pastimes and more weighty matters. Henry Newbolt is famous for his poem “Vitaï Lampada,” in which he draws a comparison between a battlefield in Sudan and a game of cricket, of all things: ”The river of death has brimmed his banks/ And England’s far, and Honour a name/ But the voice of a schoolboy rallies the ranks/ ’Play up! Play up! And play the game!’”

    The blood-soaked sands of the desert may have been Newbolt’s idea of sport, but such moments seem altogether more somber than that to me. To my ear, there’s something lightweight about the word “sport.” Webster’s defines it as a verb— “to amuse oneself”— or a noun— “physical activity engaged in for pleasure or exercise.”

    I stopped to pant, looking up to where the ravine forked and steepened. Long way to the top yet. Am I doing this for exercise? Or pleasure? Is this amusement? That faint taste of pennies on the back of my tongue suggested that this “exercise” was somewhat less than “amusing.” But, I reflected, if you want to find elk, you need to go where the elk are . . . or might be. I stripped off a layer and stuffed it in my daypack, saddled up, and continued the climb.

    It seems to me that hunting is much more serious than sport. Many of its forms call for a combination of strength and endurance, knowledge and skill, and, above all, patience and persistence that are seldom required in other sports, especially when those sports are conducted far from any approving crowd or paying sponsor. And, setting aside the physical and mental challenges for a moment, it’s worth reflecting on the fact that, sooner or later, the hunt results in a death. While some people wax overly hysterical about that, it is a sobering reality that sets hunting apart from just about anything else that is considered sport (except some kinds of fishing, which are really just aquatic forms of hunting).

    Back up on the rim, I gave myself five minutes to recover. Somewhere over on the other side of the river, on that tall ridge, the bunch of elk I’d been tracking had settled down for the afternoon, five miles from the nearest road. If I came in from the other side tomorrow, could I find them? Would this tracking snow survive the afternoon? Decisions to be postponed. For the rest of the day, I’d look for elk on this side of the river. Patience. Persistence. More often than not, a hunter makes his own luck. I turned south and started for the next patch of timber.

    As I walked, the snow dragging at my feet, calves still complaining a little after the climb, it occurred to me that hunting is really a discipline, a martial art. Hunting well, with insight and precision, reverence and humility, is exceptionally difficult. Not even the most experienced, dedicated hunter can always achieve that higher plane. And, I thought as I scanned the treeline ahead, that may be what keeps veteran hunters coming back over the decades— the challenge of attaining the elusive moment of perfection. The quest for grace.

    Words are powerful things. They convey meaning on many levels, the most important often being the most subliminal. And so we should take great care in our choice of words, especially when we’re attempting to describe exceptionally intense experiences to people who have never had them.

    Like hunting. When it’s just us folks, a bunch of hunters swapping tales around the campfire, we can indulge in that special shorthand that comes from shared experience. In that situation, everybody knows how steep the mountains are at the head of Horse Creek, what it’s like to find a way through the nasty deadfall on the north face up there, how hard it is to see an elk in the black timber before the elk sees you. Everybody knows that the hours spent looking for the first fresh track aren’t empty; they’re spiced with unexpected encounters: the black bear in the huckleberry patch, the great gray owl up in the lodgepoles, the marten, the eagle, the massive bole of that 500-year-old Doug fir on the edge of the palisades where you can eat lunch while you soak in the matchless view below. The perfect stillness in the timber at dawn and sunset.

    We don’t need to tell each other that part of the story because we’ve all lived it, so we cut to the chase, the climax of hours, days, even weeks of effort. The moment of the kill, how he appeared out of nowhere, the angle of the shot, the follow-up. Hunters fill in the rest of the experience.

    Nonhunters can’t. When a nonhunter is listening, we do ourselves a disservice with our shorthand, whether we’re chatting at a party, posting a photo on Facebook, or talking in front of a video camera. The commitment, the involvement, the focus hunting requires separate it from nearly everything else a modern person does. In its most intense moments, it transcends physical and mental demands and becomes something spiritual. It’s not a game. It’s not a sport. It’s a calling. A discipline. A way of life. Most hunters know that, of course; it’s why we hunt, but we should always be careful to say what we know. Words matter.

  • Ethics and the meat hunter

    snowies-bull-2016I SAW THE YELLOW FLANK AND THE BRANCHED ANTLERS AS HE  stepped through a thin place in the second-growth timber, maybe seventy yards away. He was gone before I could even slip the rifle sling off my shoulder, let alone shoot, but the wind was in my favor, so I went to the right as fast as I could without making too much noise, stepping rock to rock to avoid the crunch of the frost in the gravel, watching the wall of second-growth lodgepole and limber pine for another break. The seconds ticked by as I made haste slowly, already losing hope. Then, a narrow lane down the slope, and he was there, on the other end, fifty yards away, stock-still and quartering my way, staring right at me, trying to figure out exactly what had made the motion he had caught out of the corner of his eye. Before he ran.

    I figured I had about three seconds before he decided to evacuate. For many years, I struggled with this kind of quick-draw confrontation— get the rifle to the shoulder quickly but don’t spook the animal, find him in the scope, decide to make that irrevocable commitment, and squeeze the trigger, all before he jumps. It’s not the kind of shooting they teach at the rifle range, more like taking a pheasant with a shotgun. I held on the near shoulder, and at the sound of the shot, he spun and disappeared.

    I walked down to the spot. A splash of red, another, and another. Every jump he took spilled bright lung blood. I looked out fifty yards ahead and saw a branch move— no, not a branch, an antler beam just above the ground. As I arrived, I heard him take his last breath.

    There was, in that moment, the wind-sheer of emotion that always takes my breath away, even after fifty years in the field. Relief that the shot was well taken and the animal hadn’t suffered, that I’d found him without difficulty. A sudden release from the discipline big game hunting requires, the day-after-day commitment, physical and mental, the white-hot focus on the moment. Sorrow at his dying and the growing sense that someday, not all that far off, I would take that last breath myself. Regret. Elation. And, as I took out the knives, gratitude for this food, which will feed my family over the next year.

    For most of the last thirty years, our household has lived on a steady diet of wild meat— a fair amount of small game, some antelope, some deer, but mostly elk. In spite of that, I’m not sure I’d call what I do subsistence hunting. If the elk gods don’t smile, we can afford supermarket burger, although the price is breathtaking and the process that brings the meat to market turns my stomach. We infinitely prefer hormone- and antibiotic-free, locally grown meat, so big game hunting at my house isn’t just a pastime; it’s something I do for reasons of health and philosophy.

    Like many of the really important matters in life, it’s taken me many years to begin to understand my relationship as a hunter with the elk I pursue, and as the light has dawned, I’ve come to recognize a tension between the practical demands of subsistence and the ideal of sport.

    It’s all well and good to hunt for the challenge, the experience, the exercise, the fresh air, but if you really want the meat, coming home with nothing in the pickup is a serious matter. Hiking the elk timber ten or fifteen miles a day gives a hunter plenty of time for thought, and as the hours go by with no elk in evidence, such thinking inevitably turns to shortcuts. How to get the easy elk. The sure elk.

    That’s not necessarily a bad thing. It may lead to increased effort or better planning, an oath to get into better physical shape next year, a more careful study of the map or even of elk themselves, but it can also lead to darker behavior that violates the ethical canons of hunting and/or the law.

    These cross-currents of need and motive are nothing new—they’ve probably been a part of hunting for as long as hunters have gone looking for meat. For that reason, it’s instructive to consider the attitudes of true subsistence hunters toward their quarry.

    There’s a tendency to assume that all hunter-gatherers were paragons of sporting virtue in their relationship with game. Reports from observers who had a chance to witness the day-to-day activities among true hunter-gatherer cultures cast significant doubt on that notion. Many native American hunters succumbed to the siren song of the market as it established a high value in trade goods for game and wild fur, and the resulting pressure began to undermine populations of big game and furbearers well before Europeans took over the slaughter.

    Even in pre-Columbian America, the natives used techniques for taking game most modern hunters would find objectionable. Deer and moose were pursued in deep water by canoe and in deep, crusted snow by snowshoe; moose were snared; herds of buffalo were driven over cliffs; rabbits and other small game were driven into nets. The idea of “fair chase” took on a different meaning when a family’s next meal depended on success, not just a sporting effort.

    The sustainability of the harvest was built into the primitive hunting-gathering culture. After a particularly successful drive, meat and hides were undoubtedly wasted, but whenever an animal was taken, it was used as completely as human ingenuity and the technology of the time allowed, simply because the group needed the food and fiber. Harvest was limited by the effectiveness of hunting technique and weaponry, and when the game was depleted in a given area, the groups of people in that area moved on. Human populations were severely limited by their tools and regional scarcity of game, which, in turn, limited the impact of their harvest.

    This isn’t to say that Paleolithic hunters had no ethical scruples when it came to the chase. Whatever their differences, hunting societies from the pole to the tropics shared one thing— a respect, even reverence, for their prey. Anyone who has spent time in pursuit of wild animals can understand the origins of this attitude. Hunting is never predictable. Sometimes, game seems to be everywhere; other times, it seems to have disappeared for no apparent reason. It’s easy for any hunter to get superstitious about such things, even when he’s carrying a state-of-the-art firearm and has a dependable supply of beans waiting back at camp.

    For the men who hunted with bows and atlatls, such superstitions deepened into religion. We can see the ghosts of their rituals in the images left to us by ancient hunters on the walls of the caves at Chauvet and Lascaux. In the hunting cultures that survived into the modern era, there was a common theme of ritual designed to demonstrate the hunter’s respect for the animal that has died and, often, gratitude to the god or gods who provided that animal.

    The Inuit of northern Canada have hunted for millennia in one of the harshest environments on earth. Their experience with animals in that hostile place has led them to believe that all living things have spirits.

    “The great peril of our existence,” one Inuit elder has said, “lies in the fact that our diet consists entirely of souls.”

    For the Inuit and all other subsistence hunters, the failure to propitiate the spirit of an animal that had been killed put the guilty hunter and his entire band at risk of retribution.

    The Canadian biologist C.H.D. Clark spent much of his career working in and around the Thelon Game Sanctuary in what is now Nunavut and the Northwest Territories, a corner of the globe that, even today, is about as far from civilization as it’s possible to get.

    In the late 1930s, Clark met an old man in one of the local villages. The man had been blind most of his life, and the condition of his eyes showed that he’d lost his sight because of injury, not infection or illness. After Clark had known the local people for several years, he asked one of the elders what had happened. He was told that, when the man was young, he had repeatedly shown a complete lack of respect for the caribou he was killing. Afraid of the spiritual consequences of this irreverence, the villagers put out his eyes.

    Whether an animal has a spirit is something each hunter must decide for himself. If the followers of the ancient customs of hunting were right, then a hunter who fails to show gratitude for his quarry may well suffer the practical consequences of having given offense. It may be a long time before another animal comes his way. And there may be other penalties for such failures as well, curses that follow a hunter from this life into eternity.

    Of course, in this enlightened age, most people take a different view. For all too many modern folk, animals are soulless beings, put here solely for our sustenance and subject to our dominion. I don’t subscribe to that view myself, but even if it’s true, there are moral ramifications that follow the taking of a life. How an animal dies may, in fact, mean very little to the victim. But it means a great deal to the person doing the killing. Even if there is no one else to witness that final moment, the hunter has to reckon with it himself.

    At the very least, we should give the quarry a quick death with as little suffering as possible. Beyond that, we should seek to leave the animal its dignity and beauty, even in death. We should do whatever we can to kill sustainably, leaving enough animals to maintain the population and enough wild country to support them.

    Perhaps most of all, we should always kill with respect. A subsistence hunter may see that fact even more clearly than the hunter who pursues game only for sport. Man and animal, hunter and prey are swept along together in the great natural processes of the planet, the individuals no more than the water through which the wave passes. Killing is a part of life, something no living thing can avoid. The test the hunter faces is not whether he kills but how.

  • This land is our land

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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                IT WAS SUPPOSED TO BE FOR THE COMMON MAN. THAT’S WHAT THOMAS JEFFERSON THOUGHT WHEN he forged the deal that made the 800,000 square miles of Louisiana Territory the property of the United States. “The earth is given as a common stock for man to labor and live on,” he wrote to James Madison in 1785. “The small landowners are the most precious part of a state.”[i]

    But even before the Americans bought Louisiana from the French, before the French extorted it from the Spanish, possibly even before the French gave it to the Spanish to keep it out of British hands in 1762, that dream of an agrarian society of small landholders in the West, each independent and beholden to no one but himself, had faded into the distance like the rainbow after a thunderstorm.

    It may never have been possible. The geography of the land beyond the Missouri was daunting: canyons a mile deep, mountains two miles high; rivers that roared in the spring, then sank into the sand for the summer. Too much sun, too much sky, and always the wind, punishing the land and the life upon it. Until the arrival of the horse, there were large expanses that not even the Indians could endure. Jefferson’s vision of a rural utopia needed rich soil and enough rain to thrive; it found neither in the interior West.

    But if there was ever a time when a man could travel to the Shining Mountains beyond the Missouri and live unfettered by the demands of civilization, it had long since passed by the time Lewis and Clark made their way to the Pacific. The American ideal, the democratic association of free men on free land, stalled in the western wilderness. It took a huge bank account and a focused mission to survive, let alone prosper, on these vast, untamed landscapes, which is why the West was opened, not by a few intrepid settlers, yearning to breathe free, but by a succession of well-funded companies that explored and exploited the northern and western frontiers and eventually stripped them of anything that could be converted to profit.

    These days, we celebrate the free trapper as the apotheosis of American liberty. We celebrate a myth. We choose to ignore the far-flung corporate conglomerates that forced their way into the heart of the continent: the Hudson’s Bay Company, incorporated in 1670[ii] and a major force in the trade for more than two centuries afterward; the North West Company, established in 1779[iii] to challenge the Hudson’s Bay traders in the wilderness beyond Lake Athabaska; the Missouri Fur Company from St. Louis, led by Manuel Lisa and backed by the powerful Chouteau family;[iv] William Ashley’s Rocky Mountain Fur Company;[v] and the powerful American and Pacific fur companies, formed and backed by the New York entrepreneur John Jacob Astor.[vi]

    Men like John Coulter, Jedediah Smith, and Jim Bridger led the fur brigades, but men like Astor made them possible. When Astor incorporated the American Fur Company in the spring of 1808, he invested a million dollars in the firm. Soon thereafter, he established the Pacific Fur Company to exploit the fur trade between the Columbia River and the Far East,[vii] investing another $400,000 in that plan, which included the purchase of a new ship.[viii] Lisa’s Missouri Fur Company started with an investment of $40,000.[ix] It took money to form the fur brigades, provide their equipment and food, furnish trade goods, and transport furs to the markets in Europe. The fur trade was big business.

    It was cutthroat business, too. The contest between the Hudson’s Bay Company and the North West Company lasted almost forty years before the opponents decided that a merger was better business than the effort to annihilate each other. When the Hudson’s Bay Company found out that American fur traders were spilling over the Continental Divide to compete for the trade, the directors of the English company adopted a scorched-earth policy, doing their best to wipe out the beaver and other furbearers south of the Columbia River so that the Americans would have nothing to trap.[x]

    The competition between the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, Astor’s American Fur Company, and the Hudson’s Bay Company is the stuff of legend. At times, it may even have transcended harassment and price gouging. Historian John Ewers has described the Hudson’s Bay Company posts along the Saskatchewan River in prairie Canada as “the armories from which Blackfoot warriors obtained their firearms and ammunition.”[xi] It’s likely that British trade guns, powder, and lead claimed the lives of many American trappers.

    Smaller operators like Nathaniel Wyeth’s group and Benjamin Bonneville’s brigade were forced out of the trade by the big companies, who had the wherewithal to out-bid the smaller firms, even if it meant taking a loss for the year. It’s been said that the War of 1812, often explained as an American reaction to British interference on the high seas, was at least partly a fight to decide whether American or British companies would have the upper hand in the western fur trade.[xii] The struggle for supremacy among the various factions in the Rockies ebbed and flowed across the decades, but ultimately, another trend decided the future of the industry itself.

    The unrelenting pressure on furbearing animals, especially the beaver, had a predictable effect. As early as 1826, naturalist John D. Godman predicted that the beaver was headed for extinction. “A few individuals may, for a time, elude the immediate violence of persecution,” he wrote, but the species would eventually be lost “in the fathomless gulf of avarice.”[xiii] In 1834, the American Journal of Science observed that “the animals are slowly decreasing, from the persevering efforts and the indiscriminate slaughter. . . . They recede before the tide of civilization.”[xiv]

    With beaver scarce as timber in the sage, the European market turned to other fibers for the manufacture of hats, and the great beaver hunt in the Rockies came to an end. The last mountain man rendezvous was held on the Green River in 1840, and by all reports, it was little more than a shadow of the great summer gatherings of the early 1830s. As “Doc” Newell, one of the veterans of the fur trade remarked of the affair, “Mr Drips Feab & Bridger from St Louis with goods but times was certainly hard . . . no beaver and everything dull.”[xv]

    So ended the first great wave of development on the public domain in the American West. The beaver, whose pelts had built an empire, had been hunted to the brink of extinction. The men who had set the traps were gone, a large proportion of them the victims of violent deaths, the rest fading away on hard-scrabble farms in Missouri or Ohio or Oregon as they mourned the passing of a life they loved and had spent their best years to destroy. The profit from thirty years of toil and danger was in New York and London, in the vaults of the big companies that had run the business. It was a pattern that would become all too familiar over the next century.

    The beaver trade died just as American enthusiasm for the elysian fields of Oregon began to take hold. For more than a generation, a handful of land speculators and eastern politicians had sung the praises of the West Coast, and by 1841, the public relations campaign had convinced a handful of restless settlers to emigrate. In 1846, the United States finally settled the long-standing border dispute with Britain, and the boundary between the two nations was set on the 49th parallel. At the same time, the U.S. took almost half of Mexico by force, adding another 500,000 square miles to the public domain.

    mule-creek-horizontal-crop-lrWith the question of sovereignty settled, traffic on the Oregon Trail increased through the 1840s, then exploded when James Marshall’s 1848 discovery of gold at Sutter’s Mill became public knowledge. California joined the union in 1850; Oregon followed in 1859, and visionaries began to talk about the need to tie the East and West together. Wagons and sailing ships weren’t enough, the thinking went. The solution was at hand, the miracle of the age: the railroad.

    But there was a problem— 2,000 miles of unsettled wilderness between the rapidly growing nation east of the Mississippi and the newly minted states on the West Coast. Railroads were in the business of moving freight, and there was practically no freight to be moved between the Sierras and the Great Plains. Men who knew railroading were unwilling to gamble their own money on a transcontinental line, and in the wake of the gigantic expenditures of the Civil War, Congress wasn’t anxious to pay for the project.

    At first, Washington tried to interest the railroads by offering them land. Congress was willing to give the builders all the right of way required across the public domain, and just to sweeten the deal, the politicians threw in the deeds to every other section for ten miles on either side of the tracks. The railroads didn’t bite. So Congress offered $50,000,000 of bonds, with the principle and interest guaranteed by the federal government. The details of the repayment of these bonds were so sketchy that they represented another $43,000,000 of largesse for the railroads.[xvi]

    Why this outpouring of generosity? Our eighth-grade history books told us that it was a simple commitment to the idea that the nation should be united by rail, and there’s little doubt that a patriotic impulse was one of the motives the railroad magnates shared. Another was sheer greed. The railroaders distributed $250,000 in bonds around Washington, D.C., to congressmen and other key officials who could help sweeten the deal.[xvii] The bonds were worth nothing if the transcontinental line wasn’t built; they were worth plenty if it was.

    State and federal governments were even more generous with land grants. The railroads west of the Mississippi were given 131,000,000 acres of land by the federal government and another 44,000,000 acres by the states.[xviii] Combined with the control the railroads had over routes and choices of town sites, this allowed company insiders to reap huge profits in real estate.[xix] It’s been called “speculation,” but for the executives who played the game, it was really a sure thing.

    The deals that were made to complete the three great transcontinental rail lines bear an uncanny resemblance to the speculative bubbles built by Enron and the purveyors of collateralized debt obligations in our century. They were “leveraged’ to the hilt, which meant main players borrowed far more than they could pay back— unless the rail project yielded an immense profit— and many of them found ways to evade any personal financial responsibility to investors through limited liability corporations and other means.

    The railroads were built. The Union Pacific and Central Pacific lines met at Promontory, Utah, in 1869, forming the first transcontinental link across the country. Construction on the Northern Pacific, from Minneapolis to Seattle, began in 1870. Progress was delayed by financial issues, but the line was completed in 1883. The Southern Pacific link across the Southwest was completed the same year.

    The insiders in the investment schemes owned controlling interest in construction companies they made sure were hired to build the railroads. These companies charged exorbitant rates— it’s been estimated that the bill for the western part of the first transcontinental line was twice the actual cost. The profits went back to the principle investors. The key players in just the California part of the shell game that built the Union Pacific transcontinental line came away with $10,000,000 in clear profit.[xx]

    The chicanery, bribery, and fraud eventually led to scandals, both in California and in Washington, D.C. The Congressional investigation of the Credit Mobiliér lending and construction firm set off months of public outrage. More than thirty members of Congress had taken gifts of shares from the company, but no one was indicted and only two members of Congress were even censured. The organizers at the California end of the line avoided a similar investigation when all the records of their finance and construction company were mysteriously destroyed in a fire.[xxi]

    The lack of adequate capital to back the rampant speculation surrounding the transcontinental railroads was largely to blame for the financial panic of 1873 and the six-year depression that followed.[xxii] As always, the brunt of the downturn fell on people of modest means. More than 18,000 businesses closed their doors;[xxiii] small farms failed, and wages in the railroad sector and elsewhere were slashed.

    The trains rolled on steel rails, but in the nineteenth century, the railroads were built with wood. It took more than 2,000 ties to build a mile of track and at least thirty poles to string the telegraph line alongside,[xxiv] timber the forests along the routes supplied. It’s been estimated that between twenty and twenty-five percent of all timber cut in the last third of the nineteenth century found its way into railroads.[xxv]

    The demand was so intense that the mountains within thirty miles of the tracks in Wyoming were almost denuded. Since the ties were floated down local streams wherever possible, the beds of these creeks were scoured by the annual run of ties, then smothered with silt from the surrounding hillsides, and since most of the ties were laid without any treatment and, in many cases, lasted only three or four years, the demand for replacements remained strong for decades.

    Once again, the common folk shouldered the brunt of the cost of the great project, in money, heartache, and blood. The environment sustained a heavy blow, and a handful of wealthy speculators reaped the profit.

    Mining in the West didn’t wait for the railroads. After the California rush of 1849, there were several other major strikes across the West before the golden spike was driven in Utah. The romantic image of those miners is the gray-bearded prospector leading a burro up some lonesome mountain valley, which is no more accurate than our conception of the fur trade. Mineral deposits on the West’s public domain were often discovered by individual prospectors, but the extraction of minerals took equipment and men, commodities the independent operator could seldom afford. Control of the gold, silver, and copper quickly passed into the hands of well-financed companies.

    There were two ways to remove precious metals. One was to follow the veins back into the solid rock of the mountains. Mines of this kind required huge quantities of timber to guard against cave-ins. A mining engineer working on the Comstock silver lode in western Nevada invented a new approach to shoring up mines that consumed up to 80,000,000 board feet of lumber per year on the Comstock alone. One historian of the area has written that “the people of the Comstock walk over a forest of underground timbers of enormous dimensions.”[xxvi]

    One of the members of the Hayden expedition visited the Front Range of Colorado in 1869 and reported that “the rapid increase in mining operations and population in the mining sections, which are in the heart of the pine regions, is rapidly consuming, for building purposes, fuel, &c., the pines around these points.”[xxvii] He went on to add that “saw-mills are being erected in the interior of the mountain districts, as water-power is easily obtained along the little creeks.”

    By 1879, mills were so common in Wyoming that the territorial legislature passed a law to stop the disposal of sawdust “into any river, creek, bay, pond, lake, canal, ditch, or other water course.”[xxviii] It was one of the West’s earliest pollution laws, but without enforcement, it had little effect.

    The hunger for wood continued for the next twenty years. In 1897, the General Land Office reported that the steady loss of forest “fully demonstrated the want of wisdom in placing the public timber thus free of cost at the disposal of the public. It is also unjust in granting exceptional privileges to the residents of the States, Territories.”

    The problem was that the trees weren’t going to the average citizen. “Large corporations and companies have secured permits at different times to cut many millions of feet,” the 1897 report observed. And sometimes, the big operators didn’t bother with permits. “For illustration, suit was recommended against the Bitter Root Development Company in 1894 for $315,250, the value of 31,525,000 feet of saw logs,” the report added. “This company has been one of the principal factors in supplying timber to the Anaconda Mining Company, being, in fact, an adjunct of the latter.”[xxix]

    Placer gold was distributed through large deposits of loose dirt and gravel across the West. How much a company made depended on how fast it could process the mixture, In 1853, Edward Matteson, a California miner, updated an ancient technique to expedite matters— he built dams uphill from his diggings, then brought the water through a ditch and then a hose and nozzle, generating a high-pressure stream that washed tons of gravel into his sluices.[xxx] It was called hydraulic mining, and it was quickly adopted anywhere mine companies had a source of water uphill from their operations.

    While the technique had undeniable advantages for the miners, it was disastrous for the watercourses downstream. Tons of silt choked rivers and streams, exacerbating floods and, after particularly heavy runoff, depositing thick layers of mud in the flood plains and crop fields below. Often, the silt carried heavy metals and acids that killed fish and other aquatic life for miles. Once again, the public’s interest suffered while the profit from the public’s land found its way into the coffers of big companies.

    Out on the flatlands, the situation wasn’t much better.

    laramie-peak-3-panoramaStockmen had been grazing cattle and sheep in parts of the West since Cortez hit the beach. While the conquistadors indulged their obsession with gold and silver, Spanish settlers and their animals brought some measure of stability and permanence to the early colonies. The herds advanced with Spanish settlement, first to the country around Santa Fe, then into the lower Rio Grande valley of Texas, and at last to the missions of California. Farther north, the Hudson’s Bay Company saw the first emigration into Oregon Territory from the fledgling United States in the early 1840s, and officials there expanded their farming operations along the Columbia River, including a thriving herd of beef and dairy cattle, in an effort to solidify the British claim to the region.

    The markets for the commodities these early herds produced were mostly local, simply because the transportation systems of the time couldn’t move them from the frontier to population centers. As a result, domestic livestock had little impact on the public domain. That changed suddenly soon after the close of the Civil War.

    The biggest change, of course, was the explosive growth of the American rail system, but there were other developments as well. The development of a practical system of refrigeration for railroad cars and ships in the late 1870s allowed producers and processors to move fresh meat thousands of miles without spoiling. And, out on the frontier, the great war machines of the Comanche and Sioux were finally defeated, which made the business of ranching safer on thousands of square miles of western grassland.

    Starting a ranch, even a small operation, took some start-up capital. The cattleman needed a good remuda of horseflesh, the tack to saddle them, the money or equipment to keep them shod. He needed to prove up a claim on a piece of land for headquarters— the Homestead Act allowed him 160 acres free of charge, if he occupied them for five continuous years, or he could buy them for $1.25 an acre. The Desert Land Act of 1877 expanded grants to a full section of 640 acres at a price of twenty-five cents an acre.

    And he needed some cows. The price of a Texas longhorn at the northern railheads varied between three dollars and eight dollars a head,[xxxi] and that investment wouldn’t begin paying dividends until this spring’s calves had grown into two- to-four-year-old steers. A cattleman, as opposed to a cowboy, was a man of property who might have to wait years to see a return on his investment.

    In the years after the Civil War, America’s appetite for beef far outstripped the supply, and the producers who could furnish cattle made quick fortunes. That effect was heightened by the situation in Europe where outbreaks of hoof-and-mouth disease and anthrax in the 1860s took a heavy toll on livestock.[xxxii] There was money to be made with American cattle, and it didn’t take long for investors in Britain and Scotland to take advantage of the situation.

    The first British cattle corporation to operate in the United States formed in 1879, raising capital of $350,000 with which it bought up ranches in South Dakota and Wyoming. Over the next twenty years, thirty-six more British corporations invested $34,000,000 in the western cattle business. These were just the offshore investments; at the same time British capitalists were making their presence felt, well-heeled Americans from the East and Midwest were buying into the business. What had been a family-run, hand-to-mouth calling became an industry, and as was the case with most other industries of the time, the big money took complete control.

    In the years of the open range on public land, the big conglomerates played the system to gain control of key tracts of land. In 1884, The New York Times reported on the General Land Office’s investigation of illegal claims on the public domain. According to the newspaper, inspectors from the Land Office had found “between 5,000,000 and 6,000,000 acres are now illegally fenced, and that several million acres are fraudulently entered” as claims with the Land Office. One of the officials was quoted as saying, “Cattlemen will employ men to herd their stock and then will give $50 or $100 to each one to make an entry for 160 acres. When he has secured his patent, it is understood that he must transfer it to the person who advanced the money. Many of the cattle dealers will not employ men unless they will agree to make the entries.”[xxxiii]

    In 1880, the governor of Wyoming estimated that the ranching operations in the state ran 540,000 head of cattle and about 375,000 head of sheep.[xxxiv] Over the next three years, the number of cattle in the state rose to about 800,000, where it plateaued, and the number of sheep continued to climb, reaching more than 6,000,000 by 1909.[xxxv]

    At the turn of the last century, it was clear that the grasslands of the state couldn’t sustain that kind of pressure. In 1900, B.C. Buffam of the University of Wyoming Agricultural Experiment Station wrote: “The natural ranges have greatly deteriorated through over-stocking, which has prevented the best grasses from re-seeding themselves for so long a time that they have run out.”[xxxvi]

    The condition of pastureland across the West was essentially the same— thirty years of intense grazing had done damage to grasses and broad-leafed forage plants that would last for decades or even longer. At the same time, invasive plants like cheatgrass had been imported with contaminated seed, which would damage the rangeland in the Great Basin forever. The dreaded cattle disease brucellosis was brought to North America with infected livestock and was probably introduced into Yellowstone bison shortly after 1900 when domestic cows were used to foster young buffalo in an effort to preserve the species.[xxxvii]

    s-absarokaAfter less than a century, this is what Jefferson’s dream for his beloved western territory looked like: a land controlled and operated by millionaires and conglomerates, many of whom had stretched the law or simply flouted it to control the economy and politics of the public domain. A land stripped of its pristine promise: the range overgrazed; the forests over-cut; mountainsides raw and bleeding from the pitiless extraction of precious metals; streams polluted; the great herds of game, the beaver, the sage grouse all but extinct.

    The entire nation was appalled. Faced with the ruin wrought by an unfettered market and a moneyed elite, a generation of Americans began looking for a different way to realize the democratic ideal in the arid West. It began in 1872 with the creation of the world’s first national park, continued in 1890 with the protection of our first national forest, and culminated in the Taylor Grazing Act of 1934 and the Federal Land Policy and Management Act of 1976, two laws that mandated better management of BLM lands.

    The movement proceeded from the notion that our common interest is sometimes best served when we own some things together. The idea of places and resources held in the public trust gained traction with wildlife in the 1840s[xxxviii] and was extended over the next century to the great open spaces of the West’s public domain.

    The form and function of the consensus has been hammered out over the last hundred years. It has changed with time, and it will continue to change as the people who care about the public domain change, and as the land itself changes. Finding consensus among 300 million citizens is always a challenge, and it is especially difficult when we look for consensus on managing public land in the West.

    But neither history nor recent experience supports the notion that these lands would better serve America if they were in state ownership or private hands. The demands big business continues to make on the public domain in the West haven’t changed, they’ve been held in check only by federal regulations that seek to control the management of national forests and BLM holdings. If these lands were to be given to the states or sold to private interests, these smaller governing entities or owners would not have the power to resist the influence the corporations wield. Even the federal government struggles to resist that influence. Land use would quickly return to the patterns that developed in the nineteenth century. The resources on the public domain, renewable and nonrenewable, would be sacrificed to enhance profits and the public would lose its right to visit what was left.

    These days, Americans are dispossessed, confined in our apartments, on our quarter-acre lots, estranged from the land that, in large part, has defined our character as a people and a nation. We are held prisoner by economics. One of the few physical expressions of freedom we have left is the public domain. Together, we can use it without destroying it; we can enjoy it without dividing it.

    We should never give it up.


    [i] Jefferson, Thomas, 1984. Writings. Letter to James Madison from Fontainebleau, France, October 28, 1785. p. 840. Library of America, Penguin-Putnam.

     

    [ii] DeVoto, Bernard, 1952. The Course of Empire. Houghton Mifflin, New York, NY. p. 126.

     

    [iii] DeVoto, Bernard, 1952. p.302.

     

    [iv] Dolin, Eric Jay, 2010. Fur, Fortune, and Empire. WW. Norton & Company, New York, NY. p. 183.

     

    [v] DeVoto, Bernard, 1947. Across the Wide Missouri. Houghton Mifflin, New York, NY. p. 23.

     

    [vi] Dolin, Eric Jay, 2010. p. 194-196.

     

    [vii] Dolin, 2010. p. 194.

     

    [viii] Dolin, 2010. p. 197.

     

    [ix] Chittenden, Hiram Martin, 1902. The American Fur Trade of the Far West. F.P. Harper Company, New York, NY. p. 140.

     

    [x] Dolin, 2010. p. 285.

     

    [xi] Ewers, John C., 1958. The Blackfeet: Raiders on the Northwestern Plains. University of Oklahoma Press, Norman, OK. p.56.

     

    [xii] Dolin, 2010. p. 212.

     

    [xiii] Dolin, 2010. p. 283.

     

    [xiv] Dolin, 2010. pp. 282-283.

     

    [xv] Newell Robert, 1959. Memorandum of Robert Newell’s Travles in the Teritory of Missourie. Champoeg Press, Portland, OR.

     

    [xvi] White, Richard, 2011. Railroaded: The Transcontinentals and the Making of Modern America. WW. Norton & Company, New York, NY. pp.22-23.

     

    [xvii] White, 2011. p. 22.

     

    [xviii] White, 2011, pp. 24-25.

     

    [xix] White, 2011. p. 156.

     

    [xx] White, 2011. p. 36.

     

    [xxi] Folsom, Burton W., 2010. The Myth of the Robber Barons: A New Look at the Rise of Big Business in America. Young America’s, Herndon, VA. p. 22.

     

    [xxii] Lubetkin, John M., 2006. Jay Cooke’s Gamble: The Northern Pacific Railroad, The Sioux, and the Panic of 1873. University of Oklahoma Press, Norman, OK. pp. 276-285.

    [xxiii] Public Broadcasting System. The American Experience. http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/americanexperience/features/general-article/grant-panic/?flavour=mobile

     

    [xxiv] Department of Agriculture Forestry Division, Bulletin No.1, 1887. Report on the Relation of Railroads to Forest Supplies And Forestry. Washington, D.C., Government Printing Office. pp. 14-15.

     

    [xxv] MacCleery, Douglas W., 2011. American Forests: A History of Resiliency and Recovery. Forest History Society, Durham, NC. p.19.

     

    [xxvi] Davis, Samuel, 1913. The History of Nevada. The Elms Publishing Company, Reno, NV and Los Angeles, CA. p. 410.

     

    [xxvii] Thomas, Cyrus in Hayden, F.V., 1869. Preliminary Field Report of the United State Geological Survey of Colorado and New Mexico. Washington: Government Printing Office. p. 151.

     

    [xxviii] Session Laws of Wyoming Territory Passed by the Sixth Legislative Assembly, 1879. Leader Steam Book and Job Print, Cheyenne, WY. p. 117.

    [xxix] Report of the Commissioner of the General Land Office, 1897. Washington: Government Printing Office. p. 76.

     

    [xxx] http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/amex/goldrush/peopleevents/e_landscape.html

     

    [xxxi] Brayer, Herbert O., 1949. The influence of British capital on the western range-cattle industry. The Journal of Economic History 9: 85-98 (Supplement: The tasks of economic history)

     

    [xxxii] Brayer, 1949.

     

    [xxxiii] The New York Times, August 24, 1884, p.5. “Millions of acres fenced and fraudulently entered by the cattle kings.”

     

    [xxxiv] Hoyt, John, W., 1880. Report of the Governor of Wyoming Territory, Made to the Secretary of the Interior for the Year 1880. Washington, D.C. Government Printing Office. p. 4.

     

    [xxxv] Larson, T.A., 1965. History of Wyoming. University of Nebraska Press, Lincoln, NE. p. 367.

     

    [xxxvi] Buffam, B.C. and W.H. Fairfield, 1900. “Forage Plants.” In the Annual Report of the University of Wyoming Agricultural Experiment Station. p.3.

     

    [xxxvii] Meagher, Mary and Meyer, 1994. Origin of brucellosis in bison. Conservation Biology 8 (3): 645-650.

     

    [xxxviii] Martin v. Waddell 41 U.S. 16 Pet. 367 (1842)

  • Slow learners

    Yellowstone and Emigrant PeakWHEN I FIRST HEARD THE NEWS, I THOUGHT IT WAS A FACEBOOK SCAM. BUT, NO: THE MONTANA DEPARTMENT OF FISH, WILDLIFE AND PARKS HAS CLOSED 183 MILES OF THE Yellowstone River to all recreation. That includes swimming, tubing, floating, wading . . . and fishing.

    The reason? An outbreak of a fatal disease called proliferative kidney disease in the river’s whitefish and trout. Managers with the department closed the river to “protect the fishery and the economy it sustains.” They added that “the closure will also limit the spread of the parasite to adjacent rivers through boats, tubes, waders and other human contact.”

    Biologists with the department estimate that tens of thousands of mountain whitefish have already died, and there is evidence that rainbow and cutthroat trout have also succumbed.

    A release from the department added that the impact of the disease was exacerbated by exceptionally low flows in the river, high water temperatures, and disturbance from recreational activities.

    The closure may well last through September, throwing a huge wrench in the local economy, but for people who care about rivers like the Yellowstone, the economic impact of the closure is only a footnote to the much larger question: What does this mean for one of the great trout streams of the Rocky Mountain West?

    Unfortunately, I suspect that critical parts of that question will never be addressed.

    How, for example, did water levels and temperatures get so low? It’s common knowledge that the last six months have been warm and dry in Yellowstone country, so the stock answer to that question will be “drought.” Which is fine, as far as it goes. We won’t bother ourselves with the trend in weather over the last thirty years or more.

    Fact is that there have been a lot of warm, dry years in the central Rockies over the last thirty years. What we’re seeing on the Yellowstone this summer is likely to be the new normal as temperatures continue to rise and snowpacks dwindle. Less water always means warmer water, so the lack of flow this year has been a double whammy for the Yellowstone’s coldwater fish. That’s what global climate change looks like along the Yellowstone. We all share responsibility for that developing environmental catastrophe, and so far, we’ve done little, if anything, to stop it.

    Of course, there’s another reason the Yellowstone is anemic this summer. In the upper Yellowstone basin of Montana, there are 383,000 acres of irrigated land, most of it producing alfalfa or other livestock forage. That’s a lot of water that isn’t in the river, a hard fact government officials and mainstream conservation groups are likely to ignore because any discussion about the environmental effects of irrigation in the West immediately turns into a no-holds-barred brawl.

    Another question worth asking is: Where did this disease come from? The pathogen is now known to be Tetrocapsula bryosalmonae, a myxosporean parasite with a complicated life cycle that seems to include other simple forms of aquatic animal life, the bryozoans. The cause of the disease was discovered about thirty years ago, and specialists are still studying the details of its natural history and various forms. However, fish with the symptoms of the disease were reported in Europe as early as 1924.

    Here in the United States, the first known cases were found in 1981 at the Hagerman State Fish Hatchery in Idaho. I doubt that anyone will ever bother to do the sleuthing and lab work to determine whether the PKD pathogen was brought to America by human agency, but the relatively recent appearance of the disease on this side of the Atlantic, especially in an inland hatchery, suggests that somebody probably brought it over.

    In the last five years, a vocal group of biologists has suggested that we should give up the effort to exclude exotic species from new environments. They argue that such invasions are so common and so difficult to head off that trying to stem the tide of exotic species is a waste of money. They go on to assert that new species can actually increase biodiversity in an area, and isn’t biodiversity a feature of the natural world we should support?

    If, as I suspect, PKD is a recent import, this closure is one more in a litany of examples that show why this laissez–faire attitude toward the introduction of new species is so dangerous. Lots of bad things can happen when an exotic species is transplanted to a new environment, most of which we won’t recognize until it’s too late.

    Over the last 150 years, recreational anglers have played a significant role in such importations, damaging the very waters they value so highly. Western fisheries managers are still trying to cope with whirling disease, Didymo infestations, and disastrous introductions like the mackinaw in Yellowstone Lake. The magnitude of the mess we’ve created is reflected in the state inspection stations for aquatic invasives that have been established across the West, in the directives that warn us to treat our waders with chlorine solution every time we fish a new drainage, in the luxurious growth of “rock snot” on the bottoms of beautiful streams. And in a two-month closure of the Yellowstone River, not only to fishing but to all recreation.

    Every time I think about it, I feel like I just backed into a concrete wall with a new car, sick to my stomach and pounding my forehead at my own stupidity. Are we ever going to check the mirrors before we throw the car in gear? Or are we just going to keep smashing into walls?

  • Season’s end

    Flick on point

    THE MONTH OF JANUARY WENT PRETTY MUCH THE WAY I’D EXPECTED— MORE AND MORE MILES FOR FEWER AND FEWER ROOSTERS. We were still seeing birds, Flick and I— fifty or sixty a day, sometimes— but as the month wound down, the average range of flushing birds steadily increased until, when Flick started working scent at my feet, I found myself watching the ridgeline for the flicker of wings. The GPS tally of the walks mounted steadily as the days passed: 12 miles, 13 miles, 14.8 miles, 15.2 miles of kochia and switchgrass and little bluestem, up and down the Nebraska hills from sunrise to sunset, hoping for one or two good chances. Hoping.

    The last of the bird seasons closed at sunset on January 31, so, of course, Flick and I were on the road at four in the morning, the dog snoozing in a tight ball on the right seat while I navigated the black ice on the interstate in order to be in the cover at first light. We arrived to find four inches of fresh powder lying gently on the prairie grass, the stems bent in delicate arches under the roof of snow, draped with crystals they had gathered during the night, each crystal flashing as the sun touched it, the light shattered momentarily into the colors of the spectrum against the blue shadows.

    It was a quarter of a mile from the road to the first patch of cover. I eased the truck door closed and started across the intervening corn stubble as quietly as I could, Flick at heel to minimize the chance of a wild flush. Ten minutes later at the northwestern corner of the grass, I released him with a wave of the hand, and he disappeared, leaving a trail of snow suspended in the air above the switchgrass as he made his first swing.

    We worked our way down the east slope of the ridge into the draw where the old International pickup body rusted slowly away in half an acre of kochia. For all our care, the birds knew we were coming. A rooster flushed wild sixty yards to my right, out of range on the far slope, followed by a second bird even farther away. Disappointment. I’d expected them, but I’d hoped the snow would convince them to hold a little longer. At the sound of the wings, Flick popped out of the grass thirty yards to my left and froze with his ears perked up and a look of disgust. I had to smile.

    And, right then, the third rooster jumped, thirty yards away instead of sixty. I’ve played the game long enough now to keep the jolt of panic from an unexpected flush under some sort of control, but the urge to hurry was nearly overwhelming, as it always is. I shifted my feet as the Model 12 came to my shoulder, swung through the bird as he hit high gear, and pulled the trigger just an instant too early. He rocked but didn’t fall. The second shot was longer but more considered. It caught him just as he rose to clear the cutbank on the other side of the cover, and he crumpled. Flick was there three seconds later to make sure he didn’t run.

    On the last day, one rooster in the bag is a major success, but it was early and, with the snow, there was reason to hope for more. We checked the patch of kochia at the corner of the field where we moved a lone hen who ran 200 yards before she flushed at the shoulder of the ridge and disappeared.

    As I turned south, I saw another set of tracks headed south through the corn stubble. Flick wasn’t on the trail— yet— but I took the gun off my shoulder and quickened the pace. As I came over the next rise, he’d come out of the cover and was trotting down the field edge when a plume of scent grabbed him by the nose, spinning him ninety degrees as he pointed. I hurried to catch up, thinking that this was another hen— on the last day, roosters never hold to points.

    But this one had. Flick was certain sure, as tight as a fiddle string, and I stepped in front of that unerring pink nose, reminding myself to relax, just as the rooster exploded out of the switchgrass in a cloud of snow, incandescent copper and green against a flawless morning sky, cackling as he went. He swung right, and just as the muzzle of the gun caught up with him, banked back left. I managed to reprogram the change in trajectory, and he went down. Flick was there in a heartbeat to make sure he didn’t run.

    We worked another kochia covert that should have been loaded with birds, pushing one rooster out at more than eighty yards and crossing the tracks ten or fifteen birds had left as they melted into the wheat stubble to the south. Then up the southern edge of the grass, a part of the field that had never produced before. Half way up the slope, Flick pointed emphatically. I walked in, kicked the cover, and turned to look at the dog. He moved three steps and locked up again. I was doubtful— roosters don’t hold this way on the last day, especially on public land. With the gun on my shoulder, I kicked half-heartedly at the tangle of grass in front of the dog . . . and a rooster flushed, headed low over the cover to my left.

    I’ve missed that shot on many occasions. But not this time. He fell through the snow-covered canopy just short of the fence, leaving a sparkling cloud of frost in the air. And Flick was there to make sure of him.

    As we walked the half-mile back to the truck, I found myself puzzling over my feelings about the morning.

    It had been almost perfect. The landscape, so often cold and colorless at this time of year, had been transformed in the middle of the night into a fairyland. With the experience of another long season under his belt, Flick had done his job about as well as it could be done, instinct and training running straight and true in an ancient channel, and after a season of out-maneuvering and out-thinking hunter and dog, the birds had yielded, at least for an hour or two. I’d even managed to do my part with the wingshooting.

    I’ve chased birds and dogs for more than fifty years now, and if there’s anything I’ve learned over that time, it is that hunting well, with grace and honest effort, respect and appreciation, is difficult, even for those of us who have done it all our lives. What brings me back is the pursuit of perfection.

    But, in spite of the marvelous morning, I was more than a little down in the mouth as I realized that this was the last day. It’ll be nine months before Flick and I have another rendezvous with the birds. A long time to wait. If the birds had all been wild; if the dog had run ahead and flushed the only rooster; if I had missed the one good chance, as I so often do; if the wind had swung into the north and pummeled us; if we had come back to the truck at sunset, footsore, chilled, and hungry with nothing to show for the effort except blisters and the questionable benefit of ten hours of hard walking— if, in short, it had been what the last day almost always is— then it might have been easier to let go.  As it was, this hour had transcended the sum of its exquisite parts.  Everything— the weather, the land, the light, the birds, the dog, even the hunter— had been close to some sort of unspoken ideal, and the combination was so fine that it brought a smile to my face and a tear to my eye.  It’s hard to let go of such days.

    As I write this, Flick is sleeping in the corner, whining now and then, his feet twitching as he follows fresh scent through the coverts of his dreams. In this, as in so many other aspects of the hunt, he gives me an example to follow.  Fall will come again.  In the meantime, I’ll take his lead and remember this day, savor it, until next November.

  • The Revenant falls short

    Laramie County sunrise 3THE TALE OF HUGH GLASS AND THE GRIZZLY IS ONE of the most treasured stories in the mythology of the mountain man. Most of the best parts understandably come down to us by word of mouth, since Glass was alone during the legendary crawl and never wrote a word about the experience.

    However, there are a few generally accepted facts that ground the story: Glass met the grizzly around August 23, 1823, on the Grand River near what is now the border between North and South Dakota. It took him a month and a half to make his way back to Fort Kiowa, an American Fur Company outpost on the Missouri River near what is now Chamberlain, South Dakota. There had been two serious fights with the Arikara earlier that summer, the first in June involving the men of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company; the second, a retaliatory strike led by Colonel Henry Leavenworth and the Sixth Infantry. There was also a skirmish with the Mandans on the Grand River.

    As Kevin Bacon said in “A Few Good Men,” “These are the facts of the case, and they are not disputed.”

    Like many aficionados of western history, I’ve always admired the Hugh Glass story, and like many fans of Hollywood, I looked forward to Alejandro Iñárritu’s film adaptation, “The Revenant.”

    Well, I’ve seen it. I have to give a nod to Leo DiCaprio, who may well deserve an Academy Award for his work in the film, for raw endurance, if nothing else. There is some exquisite photography of marvelous landscapes.

    But about those landscapes. Many of us with an affection for the West had hoped that Hollywood had finally outgrown the need to set every film with a western theme in Jackson Hole or Monument Valley. Kevin Costner showed the way in “Dances with Wolves,” a film about the High Plains actually filmed in the grassland wilderness of the High Plains.

    Iñárritu couldn’t decide where to place Hugh Glass in “The Revenant.” Anyone with the slightest grasp of western geography is likely to get whiplash as scenes jump from snowbound mountain passes to dense coniferous forests and then, for three minutes or so, onto the grasslands before returning to the mountains. Glass was mauled on the High Plains; he crawled 200 miles across the High Plains to get back to Fort Kiowa, an encampment on the Missouri River in the heart of the Great Plains. None of the forts of that time— Fort Henry, Fort Tilton, Fort Kiowa— were in the high mountains. They were all in or near major rivers like the Missouri or the mouths of the Yellowstone and Big Horn. Grassland settings.

    Iñárritu couldn’t even decide WHEN his story took place. Near the beginning of his version, Glass and his companions have already seen major snowfall— winter is coming on. Glass is mauled by a sow grizzly with two cubs that should be half the size of their mother by late fall; instead, the two youngsters are about the size they would be in May.

    It looks a lot like winter as DiCaprio’s Glass crawls out of his shallow grave and heads for Fort Kiowa with a broken leg and deep lacerations. There are no bugs, precious few berries— in short, no food for a man who is unarmed and all but immobilized. No flies to lay eggs in the festering wounds so that the maggots can clean the injuries and keep Glass from dying of infection or blood poisoning.

    I can accept certain embellishments to the traditional Hugh Glass story— giving Glass a son by a Pawnee woman, inventing an Arikara chief who is searching for his kidnapped daughter, twisting the end by allowing Glass to kill Fitzgerald— but was it really necessary to make the crawl even more difficult than it really was? I guess being abandoned without firearms or a horse 200 miles from the nearest help with a broken leg and multiple puncture wounds and lacerations wasn’t a big enough challenge. Iñárritu just had to spice it up a little.

    If Iñárritu didn’t want to take the time to research the story or visit the places where it happened, he could have hired somebody to do the digging. As it is, he turned what might have been an engaging piece of historical fiction into a fantasy of violence. “The Revenant” reminds me of “A Clockwork Orange.” It could have been something much better.

  • On the nature of gifts

    sunrise goose migration 2

    A long day of watching a sky devoid of waterfowl, staring into the endless blue until my eyes burn and the muscles at the base of my neck stab me every time I turn my head. A pair of buffleheads scoot in over the decoys at eleven. A harrier kites along the shore at noon. A magpie at one. A gull at two. The whisper of the ripples eating at the shelf of ice at the head of the bay, the hours passing until the sun drops low in the west and the light gives the illusion of warmth while the breeze finds a way through to the nape of my neck, just to remind me that it’s December. As if I needed the reminder, laid out on the sand, rock hard with the frost with nothing but a double layer of burlap under me, all this interminable day.

     

    Evening. Time to pick up. As cold as it is here on the ground, it’s not as cold as it will be out in the water, up to my waist, retrieving the decoys and winding the anchor lines as ice water runs down my sleeves. Still, it’s time to pick up. Stand up, and the blood that has pooled in my legs, losing its heat, comes back to the core and the shiver comes hard and fast. Put on another layer, then wade out into the water, thick and dark like molasses in the cold. Wrap a decoy and pitch it up on the bank. Blow on my hands to keep them working. Wrap another decoy, thirty-four of them until all the blocks I can reach without going over my waders are up on the beach.

     

    I walk down the shore and over the point to where I hid the boat, and the exercise quells the shivering. The motor— the old five-and-a-half Johnson that was my dad’s— starts on the first pull, a minor blessing, and I run back around the point, slowing to an idle, then killing the motor as I reach the first of the goose decoys, the ones on twenty-foot anchor lines so I can get them out where they can be seen by a passing flock on the main lake. Five passes to get them all in the boat and another ten minutes to get the lines wound up so they don’t tangle. Back to shore to pick up the shells. Then bag the spread, case the unused gun, load everything in the little boat until there’s barely room for my feet, push off, and haul myself in one more time.

     

    As I point the boat east down the reservoir, my eye catches the movement I’ve watched for all day— a line of mallards, high, so high, against the deepening blue of the evening sky. And another. And another. I follow the procession back toward the horizon, and as far as I can see, the tracery of mallard flocks shivers in the wind, black lace against the indigo of space until the patterns fade in the distance. And they keep coming. For half an hour as the old Johnson pushes me toward home, the formations pass to the west.

     

    There was a time in my waterfowling career when I would have taken this hard. Were the old Greeks right? Do the gods make sport of men just to amuse themselves? There was a time I thought so and cussed the fates that so often make light of our best efforts, but slowly, over the years out on the water, I’ve absorbed the hard lesson, the discipline of patience. And now, on the other side of patience, there’s another lesson waiting. This was a day that had not given me what I’d come for. It had given me something else instead.

     

    Many years ago, my grandmother told me I shouldn’t look a gift horse in the mouth. It’s taken me this long to realize how right she was.